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Delicious Magazine July 2004

Delicious Magazine July 2004

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Do the Wight thing

Amy Willcock may not actually be the busiest person on the Isle of Wight but she is certainly a contender. In 1994, John Illsley and Amy’s husband, Jeremy, took over The George Hotel in Yarmouth and set about turning it into the chic Michelin-starred establishment it is today.

One of Amy’s favourite places to eat seems shrouded in mystery, at least for DFLs – how Islanders refer to anyone ‘Down From London’. The Boathouse at Steephill Cove is tiny, the menu implausibly short, and finding it is very difficult. Amy says: “Jeremy and I were taken to The Boathouse last summer. First you park your car by Ventnor Cricket Club and then you walk through a maze of stone steps among the backs of houses. Suddenly you arrive at Steephill Cove – there is the sea, a beautiful beach and The Boathouse. It is run by Mark and Vanessa Wheeler (he does the fishing and she does the cooking) and the restaurant tables are outdoors on a sort of decking arrangement.

“If it rains, Vanessa rings and tells you not to bother turning up, but if the weather is good you can’t help feeling smug that you have had the foresight to book one of those tables! They serve delicious fresh lobster and crab, perhaps with a boiled potato or two – no meat. This restaurant doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not, and is only open during the holiday season. It doesn’t matter that The Boathouse is tricky to find because so many of the customers arrive by boat. Just find Steephill Cove!”

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