Delicious Magazine July 2004

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Do the Wight thing
Amy Willcock may not actually
be the busiest person on the Isle of Wight but she is certainly
a contender. In 1994, John Illsley and Amy’s husband, Jeremy,
took over The George Hotel in Yarmouth and set about turning
it into the chic Michelin-starred establishment it is today.
One of Amy’s favourite places
to eat seems shrouded in mystery, at least for DFLs – how Islanders
refer to anyone ‘Down From London’. The Boathouse at Steephill
Cove is tiny, the menu implausibly short, and finding it is
very difficult. Amy says: “Jeremy and I were taken to The Boathouse
last summer. First you park your car by Ventnor Cricket Club
and then you walk through a maze of stone steps among the backs
of houses. Suddenly you arrive at Steephill Cove – there is
the sea, a beautiful beach and The Boathouse. It is run by Mark
and Vanessa Wheeler (he does the fishing and she does the cooking)
and the restaurant tables are outdoors on a sort of decking
arrangement.
“If it rains, Vanessa rings and
tells you not to bother turning up, but if the weather is good
you can’t help feeling smug that you have had the foresight
to book one of those tables! They serve delicious fresh lobster
and crab, perhaps with a boiled potato or two – no meat. This
restaurant doesn’t pretend to be anything it’s not, and is only
open during the holiday season. It doesn’t matter that The Boathouse
is tricky to find because so many of the customers arrive by
boat. Just find Steephill Cove!”