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Newsletter February 2004

Modern Country Living - Domestic Bliss

Game On: a Plucky little Pigeon

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Great friends of ours have sold their wonderful estate and are moving about 25 miles away. For most of you 25 miles are nothing - hop in the car and really they are just a little further away and it is no big deal. But for us islanders, 25 miles might as well be 2500 miles! To see them will now involve military organization and over night bags. While it is a great USP for our business, the ferry can be a pain personally. I do feel bereft at their leaving and so will our village although the full on departure hasn’t hit most of it yet because in truth, they have no idea just how much our local community relies on the goodwill of a really good squire. In this PC world of ours we don’t talk about squires -everyone must be deemed to be the same. But in fact it is about time that we embraced our class system and made it work for us. In America people are always trying to better themselves either by reinvention or study – in the back of a very up market magazine (available to all) called Town and Country there are ads for etiquette tuition - can you imagine Harpers and Queen or Tatler advertising such courses? Well maybe it’s time they did so that people know what it is to be polite and well mannered. That doesn’t mean you have to become a phoney or a fake, you just need to become understanding of what makes the world a nicer place to live in. Those who have more do indeed have a responsibility to put more back into society. My point is that I hope the new owners will do as much stealth good works as the last and I hope that those who have not noticed it will go on not noticing it but in an appreciative way.

Recipe:
AS Pan Fried Pigeon breasts with Maltaise sauce

Serves 6

12 pigeon breasts -2 per person
Clarified butter
2-3 tbsp flour
Salt and pepper
1 orange – segmented
Watercress to garnish

Maltaise Sauce
Sauce will serve about 6

2 large organic egg yolks
Juice of ½ a lemon
1 tablespoon water
Salt and white pepper
250g unsalted butter cut into cubes
1 whole organic orange – juice and zest

Sauce:
Place the egg yolks, lemon juice, water, sugar, salt and pepper in a bowl over a pan of simmering water (do not let the bowl come into contact with the water) and whisk until the mix leaves a ribbon trail. Whisking constantly, drop in the cubes of butter one at a time - don’t drop in the next cube until the previous one has been absorbed. This will take some time.

In another small pan, reduce the juice of the orange together with the zest by half

When all the butter is gone and you have a thick velvety sauce add the orange juice reduction and zest. Taste for seasoning and serve.

Make the Maltaise sauce and keep warm.

Season the flour with salt and pepper and put it on to a flattish plate. Dust the pigeon breasts in it and shake off the excess.

Heat a heavy frying pan so that it is searingly hot. Melt about a tablespoon of clarified butter in it and pan fry the pigeon breasts in batches for 2 minutes each side or longer to your liking.

Drain the breasts on some kitchen paper and rest for 5 minutes in a warm place.

Slice them and arrange on a warm plate and spoon over some of the sauce and garnish with watercress and an orange segment.

Tip:
Do something nice for your village, town, street or even a neighbour today!

 

This article by Amy Willcock appears in The Shooting Gazette February 2004, and is reproduced here with permission.

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